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SURVIVAL INFORMATION,ARTICLES & MORE

Friends, here you will find information as well as articles and picture in regard to the Topic of Survival!

Our dedicated researcher, Peter's wife Karen has found an article that I hope will come handy should the need arises.

WILDERNESS SURVIVAL

SHELTERS

There are environmental considerations – things to consider in terms of microclimate and slight changes in the weather – that can make the difference between a comfortable night and an uncomfortable one. Both day and nighttime temperatures extremes are found closest to the ground. In the desert regions, the hottest temperatures are on the ground surface. A campsite that is even a foot above the desert floor will be much cooler. The opposite is true in terms of cold. The coldest spots are at the bottom of canyons. A warmer site will be partway up a slope. Instead of camping at the bottom of a stream, move up to a bench. Don’t stay next to a lake; move back from the water and above it, if possible. A valley bottom, even in the summer, will be 10° - 15° colder than a bench a short distance up a slope. Cold night winds sweeping down a canyon or valley will add to your discomfort.

If you are close to an ocean or a large lake, consider the direction in which the land and sea breezes blow. At night, land cools quickly, and the wind blows from land to ocean. During the day the air over the land heats up quickly, and wind blows from ocean to land. This is a fairly regular pattern most of the year in coastal areas. You may want to maximize the daytime or nighttime breeze or minimize one or the other, depending on weather conditions. A similar shift in winds takes place in mountain regions. The air above mountain slopes heats more rapidly than the valleys. During the day, winds tend to flow uphill. Late in the afternoon, when the mountain slopes become shadowed and cool, the wind reverses, sometimes quite suddenly, and blows downhill from mountain tops into valley bottoms. Winds flow down the same drainage patterns as water. Therefore, the best campsite in the mountains is the one that minimizes these nighttime mountain winds. Camp on flat ridges, away from streams or near the warmer middle one-third of a mountain slope, for a more comfortable night.

Taken from: Wilderness Survival by Bernard Shanks

© 1980 by Bernard Shanks



HOW TO MAKE FIRE

One of the most important aspect of survival, is the ability to make & maintain a fire. It could very well be the difference between LIFE & DEATH. Fire can accomplish many needs. It provides warmth, the ability to cook and preserves foods, heated foods will save calories that our bodies would normally use to give us a higher body heat. Fire will help by protecting us from wild animals, for signaling, it will purify water, it will help in the manufacturing of weapons and much more!
For all it's good uses, fire can also be detrimental. It will give off Carbon Monoxide if used in shelter without proper ventilation, also beware of forest fires.
 There are 3 essential elements in fire, AIR, FUEL & HEAT, if you do not have ALL 3 of these elements, there will be no fire! The though part is to recognize the ratio of these 3 components, the only way to learn this, is with practice.
 
 I have located a site that has detailed instructions in HOW TO MAKE A FIRE (click here and it will take you there). This is one of the BEST site I have found on the subject of survival & I may direct you there from time to time, I would strongly suggest that you Bookmark it in your browser, it is THAT good!


These next ads, are items that could someday save your life, you don't necessarily have to be outdoors for needing these items!

                                             


SURVIVAL & CLOTHING

Survival Clothing For Outdoor Emergencies    by Steve Gillman

Maybe you don't need to learn about survival clothing. Maybe you always hike with a spare jacket. Perhaps you never go out into the wilderness overnight, but just for day hikes. Or you bring lots of warm clothing when you do go backpacking.

Nonetheless, hundreds of people die or come close to dying every year from exposure. They thought they were prepared. They didn't expect their clothes to get wet from falling in a stream, they didn't think they'd be out there for the night, or they get lost for days.

Coming down from Mount Whitney I met several young men in t-shirts on their way up, determined to get to the top. They had no gear, and not enough time, but they probably made it there by sunset anyhow. They also certainly didn't make it the eleven miles back to their car before dark. It was below freezing that night, so I imagine they were uncomfortable at best.

Quick Survival Clothing

What survival clothing could they have made in that situation? One of them did have a light jacket. He could have used his t-shirt as a hat (a lot of heat is lost through the head) and filled his jacket with the fluff from the cattail seedheads for insulation. (Cattail down was once used to fill those old orange life preservers.)

Insulation is the important principle here. You can stuff a jacket, shirt, sweater or pants with dry leaves, milkweed down, bracken ferns or almost anything that creates a lot of "dead air space." It's better if you have two layers to sandwich it between, but being itchy is better than being frozen in any case.

In a jam, you can also use the flat leaves of cattail plants to weave a vest that will block the wind and some rain. Two bread bags full of milkweed down or other silky plant fibers make warm mittens (tie them at the wrists). A plastic bag full of the same could be tied onto your head as a hat.

Usually, you'll do better to look first at what you have, before looking to kill animals for their skins, or weave grass skirts. If you have a sleeping bag, it can double as a coat - just wrap it around you. Socks can be mittens, and garbage bags can be made into snow pants.

A garbage bag can also be a raincoat. Otherwise, tie bunches of grass tightly together along a string or strip of cloth, and then wrap it around your shoulders. This will repel a light rain. You can fashion a rain hood of birchbark as well.

In the desert you can make a sun-hat of large leaves, like those from a fan palm. String some together to wrap around your shoulders to prevent sunburn.

You'll probably never have to use animal skins for survival clothing. You might never lose your shoes and need to glue tree bark to your feet with pine sap, for hiking. Still, knowing how to improvise a few basic pieces of survival clothing can make you more comfortable, and possibly save your life.


About the Author

Steve Gillman is a long-time advocate of lightweight backpacking. For more on survival clothing, plus tips, photos, stories and a new Wilderness Survival Guide, visit The Ultralight Backpacking Site: http://www.The-Ultralight-Site.com


Camping and Survival Supplies
Everything from binoculars and camp stoves to Colloidal Silver and potassium iodate, CampingSurvival.com offers the widest selection of camping and survival supplies and equipment at the lowest prices!

 

OpticsPlanet.com

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I have strong opinions on the safety of my family and loved ones, I have written an article dealing with the WILL TO LIVE, it is intended to cause folks to ask the question and perhaps start a home discussion on DO I HAVE THE WILL TO LIVE? let me know your thoughts on the subject, please keep it clean and civil and I will post your responses as soon as I receive them.


 This article is graciously provided by        

 

Get an Edge in Life

By: Gary L. Benton


 
huntingknife-8_png.pngAs a hunter, I have found a good sheath knife can be a real lifesaver. As an experienced hunter, it is always easy for me to spot the newest member of the hunting group who usually has very little experience in the woods. They almost always show up wearing a knife modeled after their favorite action movie star, large and useless. And, unlike the movies, our hunter has to “live” with his or her knife selection for the duration of the hunt. In many ways they are lucky, because there are more experienced hunters around them. Knives, how much do we really know about them? I cannot make you a knife expert in one small article, but I can give you a few pointers that may assist you in selecting a knife that will work the best for you in the field. Also, keep in mind, there are many different kinds of knives on the market and they are all designed for different uses. But, let’s look at the components of a typical sheath knife. A knife is made up of these important parts,

 1. The Blade, the metal blade that extends from the handle. The blade has the cutting surface ground onto it. It also comes in various lengths and shapes. Each blade shape is designed for a particular task. Some knife blades are for filleting, skinning, chopping, and so on. Additionally, some blades are made of better steel than others. (If you are interested in the meals used for knife blades, the Internet has a lot of information). I won’t get into all the different metals that can be used to make knives, except to say, I prefer a 440C blade. I have found it to hold an edge well, be strong enough for about any task I would require of it, and to be a good metal. Cheap knife blades will either be impossible to sharpen, or will not hold an edge. Also, at least make sure your knife is made of stainless steel (reduces rusting and corrosion, but does not prevent it). If you are interested in more information about the metals used in knife construction, I suggest you conduct a web search (I typed in knife blade metals and had 19,000 sites listed).

2. The Point. I think most of the readers know this part of the knife. This part is usually used for gutting game, piercing, or stabbing. It is also the most dangerous part of the knife. It should always be sheathed or covered when not in use. Never walk or run with an uncovered knife in your hands, because if you fall you could be injured.

3. The Tip. The forward one fourth of the blade. It does most of the cutting and separating. The tip also includes the point (#2).

4. The cutting edge, well, it is just that. It is the tapered length of the blade that is sharpened and designed to cut. There are many different types of edges available, but I prefer a straight edge compared to serrated edges. I have found they are better in the field for me because I can sharpen them quickly and keep them sharp with less effort. The type of edge, just like the metal used in the blade, is an individual choice. There are also a number of different “grinds” put on edges, but I won’t get into that aspect in this article.

5. The Guard or Bolster tip. This part of the knife protects your hands from the blade in the event your hand should slide on the handle during use. Knife guards come in various shapes, sizes, and designs. Some of them can be too big and actually make the knife more difficult to use effectively. Select a knife with a guard design you find practical, not beautiful.

knife-PartsA.jpg 6. Handle. The handle of a knife can be constructed of many different types of material. I have seen them made of wood, plastic, polypropylene, and one even made from an old truck tire (rubber) in Southeast Asia. I avoid metal handles like the plague. I find them to cold to use much in severe winter weather and could actually stick to your hand if it is cold enough.

7. The Butt. This is the handle end of the knife, opposite of the tip. It is, for all practical purposes, the ‘end’ of the knife. In some survival knives this may contain a metal cap that can be unscrewed to reveal a hollow storage compartment. I, personally, see no need for the compartment. I carry my survival gear in a survival kit. But, it is an individual preference.

There are other parts to a knife, but these are the most important ones for our discussion. I want to suggest how you can select a good knife, not how to make one. A good quality, well designed, sheath knife will contain all of the parts I have just explained. Please, understand, I am not discussing pen knives or jack knives. They are dogs of a different color. I am only talking about sheath knives.

Ok, you have found a knife that is made of a good metal, has all the required components, now what? Simply pick it up. A well-designed knife should feel natural in your hand. Does it feel balanced? The distribution of weight between the blade and the handle affect the balance a great deal. You do not want a knife with a blade that is too heavy, just like you don’t want a blade that is too light. Spend some time and find a properly balanced knife for your hand. The knife, if ergonomically designed, will feel like it is one piece and actually, you should not be able to feel the differences in the weight of the blade and handle. It should feel natural, fit the hand normally, and be light enough to use for a prolonged period of time.

Avoid knifes that feel too blade heavy, too wide, or feel “wrong” to your hand. Here again, it is a matter of choice. Once you see the knife you want, look at the sheath. Is it made of a good quality material? Sheaths can be constructed of metal, plastics, leather, cloth, and the list goes on. I prefer a leather sheath that is re-enforced with rivets, but again it is a personal choice. I also make sure all of my knife sheaths are double stitched.

I once lost a knife I had because the sheath was poorly constructed, so I take extra care in selecting only quality work. Whether or not a sheath is designed so it can be tied to a leg, attached to a web harness, or secured to an ankle, matters very little to me. I prefer a knife sheath that attaches securely to my web belt. I have found knives that I attach to other points of my body either, a) get in my way as I walk, b) cannot be reached when I really need them, or c) aren’t in the sheath when I want them.

Ok, once you have a excellent quality knife with a good sheath, that’s all there is to it…right? Wrong. You also need to know how to sharpen your blade and how to keep the blade in good condition. In an emergency, many different types of stone may be used to sharpen your knife blade, quartz, sandstone, or granite are very good examples. If you use a professional sharpening stone, make sure it has two sides. A good quality professional sharpening stone has both a rough side and a smooth side. Use the rough side first, then the smooth side. Hold the handle of the knife in your right hand and apply even pressure on the blade with your fingertips.

Many experienced hunters have a preferred angle to hold the knife blade (usually 13-16 degrees, or the just about the thickness of your blade), but I suggest you, as a beginner, just work at keeping the angle constant. Remember also to keep the stone wet with water or oil. You can sharpen your knife by pushing the blade down a wet stone, in a slicing motion, see the illustration. Then, turn the knife over and pull the blade towards your body. Use caution here to avoid injury. Another way to sharpen you knife blade is to move the blade in a circular motion, as shown in the illustration. The key to a sharp knife is keeping a constant angle, using a wet stone, and using your fingertips for even pressure.

Your knife can be preserved by wiping it down with vegetable oil after you are finished sharpening it (even stainless steel will rust, it just takes longer). Many folks use other oils, but I prefer to use a vegetable oil since I may at some point use the knife to eat with. Not to mention I may have to use the blade to prepare an animal carcass after a kill. I just feel safer using a vegetable oil.

sharpenknife.jpg Additionally, I also feel I should explain some basic knife safety with you. Never run with a knife in your hand. It is too easy to fall, or trip, and stick yourself with the tip. If you feel like running, place the knife in the sheath, or drop the knife. Never throw a knife that is not designed for throwing. You can break the blade, bend the blade, or, yep, stick yourself when the knife bounces back. Keep the knife either in the sheath or in your hand. Never use the blade as a screwdriver, to pry things open with, or to cut metal. Use a knife only for its designed purpose, to stab or cut with. Using the blade improperly may cause it to break or cause injury. The last thing you need in the woods is an injury, regardless of how small it may be. Never use the butt of the typical sheath knife as a hammer. It is not designed to hammer with and you may damage your knife. (There are some knives on the market that have a butt designed for hammering, but I don’t trust them). If you need a hammer, then get one. Would you use a hammer to field dress game? A knife is designed for cutting, not hammering. Remember the old military adage, “Use the proper tool for the job.”

Never attempted to catch a falling knife! I have seen some nasty injuries as the result of people attempting to do just that. If you drop a knife, let it fall, while making every effort to ensure your feet are not near the impact point. Remember, you don’t need an injury.  Keep the edge of the blade sharp! A dull blade causes many more injuries than a sharp one. You should never have to apply undue pressure or force a blade to make it cut. Also, you should not have to “saw” with a blade to cut. If you do, you need to sharpen the blade or use a different type of cutting tool (perhaps you need a hatchet or ax and not a knife?).

Take care of the edge on your blade and it will take care of you when you need it. Sheath knives come in all sizes, shapes and designs. I suggest a small or medium size blade, easy to maneuver, with a nice even balance. Once more I will hype the 440C blade with a straight edge as my blade of choice. When you evaluate a knife ask yourself a very important question, “could I trust my life to the quality of this knife?” In some extreme situations the quality of a good blade could do just that, save your life. There are good knives out there that are not expensive, of good quality, and will last a lifetime if properly cared for.

Now you should have a better idea of how to select the one you want, with the quality and design you need. Remember that most experienced woodsmen carry a pen knife or a jack knife in their pockets as well as a sheath knife. I also carry a good quality jack knife in my survival kit. When you are hunting, or faced with a survival situation, the quality of your gear can make the difference between life and death.

As my old sergeant used to say in the military, “carry quality gear, keep it in excellent condition, and it will always work when you need it, as often as you need it.” Once your game is down, or you are isolated, what you have on you may be all you have to work with. When it comes right down to it, do you wanna bet your knife on it? © 2003 Gary L. Benton

 

Knives from Cold Steel, Gerber, SOG, Spyderco, Benchmade, plus Multi-Tools, Axes, Saws and Spears at Your American Backyard.




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